New Zealand has set a global precedent by banning so-called “immortal chemicals” from cosmetics from 2026. The ban was announced by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), New Zealand’s environmental regulator, to prevent harm to human health and the natural environment caused by PFAS chemicals.
What are “immortal chemicals”?
PFAS, or perfluorinated and polyfluorinated alkyl compounds, known as “immortal chemicals,” have an extremely slow degradation rate. This unique persistence has raised concerns about their potential to accumulate in humans, animals and the environment. In the cosmetics industry, PFAS are often used to smooth skin and hair or to adjust the consistency and texture of products. There have been concerns about the potential association of PFAS with cancer, birth defects, and their possible negative effects on humans and animals.
PFAS chemicals such as PFAS have been detected in drinking water, soil, rainwater, human blood, and even in cosmetics such as shaving cream and lip balm. Dr. Shaun Presow, Head of Hazardous Substances Reassessment at the New Zealand Environmental Protection Agency, told The Guardian, “We know that these chemicals are difficult to break down, build up in the body over time, and can be toxic at high concentrations.”
Which Cosmetics Have the Highest Levels of PFAS?
In 2021, a study conducted by a team of researchers from the University of Notre Dame showed that certain cosmetics had extremely high concentrations of PFAS. Waterproof mascara had the highest levels of PFAS, up to 82 percent, followed closely by long-lasting lipstick at 62 percent. The study, which examined 230 cosmetic products, showed that 56% of foundation and eye cosmetics, 48% of lip cosmetics and 47% of mascara contained fluorine, a sign of PFAS.
U.S. Ban on “Immortal Chemical Substances
While New Zealand’s decision to ban PFAS in cosmetics is a landmark, a number of state governments have already begun to take action in the U.S. In 2022, California became the first major jurisdiction to announce that it would ban all PFAS in cosmetics by 2025. In addition, Maine and Minnesota have recently passed legislation that plans to ban the sale of PFAS-containing products starting in 2030. The European Union is also actively pushing for a more comprehensive ban.
